Otherwise known as the Totes Awesome Tutorial, 2.0
Last week we had the most excellent tutorial on making a totebag using the fabric panels. “But!” You may have remarked, “I don’t know how sturdy this will be and I have a lot of crap to tote around. I would have many sad moments if my bag was to rip apart like JLo’s marriage…” or perhaps you thought, “Wow! The outside of my tote is amazing to look at! But the inside is a worse mess then those Desperate Housewives series…”
Fret not! For this is my method on how to make a liner, set a flat bottom, put a pocket in, and make smaller side handles. There might be easier ways but this is what works for me.
When I made my first bag, I was left with two lonely panels. I cut those apart as well and renamed them Fashion Fabric (or FF). Using them as my template, I cut two panels out along two strips 5″ by 20″ (I used both patterned strips in the first tutorial) and a 5×7″ rectangle for the pocket. For this bag, I’m using a linen-cotton blend as my lining. You can use denim or canvas for strength or another cotton or some other lightweight fabric to make the inside pretty and reversible. Whatever fabric you do end up using, do take the time to prewash it in the warmest water it can stand, as different weights of fabric can shrink in different ways. And it would be a shame to put the time and attention to a project… And have it get ruined because the fabrics shrunk into two different sizes from being washed.
To make the pocket I first overlocked-stitched around the perimeter of the pocket, mostly because I can use that to anchor the edges and achieve a good narrow hem. Depending on your material, this might be a necessary step to help keep the edges from fraying.
Turn down the top of the fabric rectangle about a half inch, then turn the overlocked edge under that and sew a narrow hem for the top of the pocket.
To pin the pocket onto the lining, turn under the overlocked edges, pin to the fabric where you want the pocket to sit. I placed mine about three inches from the top of where the totebag was going to be.
Sew a straight stitch close to the edge of the pocket. You now have a mini tote within your tote!
You can also do this with your fashion fabric side if you so wish. I have a design on both sides, So I elected to not put a pocket on the outside.
Now to assemble the bag itself:
Put the right sides of the FF together, sew up the sides and the bottom with a 1/2 inch hem. Do the same with the liner, except for a good 4 to 6 inch gap on the bottom (this is important for later). Trim your seams if you are so inclined.
If you want a flat bottom (on your bag, that is), line up your side seam with your bottom seam, making a point with the corner. Depending on how boxy you want your bottom to be, measure out the distance on each side as shown. I tend to go four or five inches, but it depends on how big a bag I am making. Mark your line with chalk or crayon. The clear rulers you can find in the quilting sections of your fabric store are really good for this kind of thing, since they are transparent you can see where the designs are. I got mine when they were being clearanced out; keep your eyes open for that great sale!
Sew along your mark; you can either tack the points to the bottom or trim it off. I’ve done both, and I tend to trim. Your bag will now have a nice bottom to rest on the ground. Some people will put a hard bottom in (like fabric-covered cardboard or even fabric-covered plastic canvas) but I tend to not bother because it’s one more piece to have to keep track of; and unless you can be positively sure you aren’t going to get anything on your totebag, the cardboard/whatever you use will diminish the washability of your tote. I got kids. Therefore, I need to wash.
At this point we can work on the straps. Simplest way is fold in half with the nice side facing each other, sew the seam, turn right side out, topstitch and call it lovely.
Putting it all together: measure three inches in from the side seams, and pin straps on the right/finished side of the lining. I will set about an inch off the ends of the handles into the bag for extra security.
Do the same for all four ends of your handles… and in the long, long parental tradition of Do As I Say, Not As I Do… yes, I pinned the handles on the wrong side of the lining. Yes, I didn’t notice until after I stitched everything together. This is why you keep your seam ripper close by and carefully choose your curse words for little ears.
Turn your FF right side out, fit it into the lining, and pin the top, matching the side seams together (at this point, the handles for the bag should be between your lining and the FF). I usually use a basting stitch– which is setting your straight stitch setting on your sewing machine for the longest-size stitch length. Here is where I fixed my mistake and am showing how it SHOULD look like if you did it right the first time. Ahem.
Pull the FF through the hole in the bottom of the lining– see why it was important? Topstitch around the top of the bag. If you so choose, also do a reinforcing stitch around where the ends of your handles are to give additional strength (I didn’t on this one).
Either handsew the lining closed, or choose to be lazy ike me and quickly sew it up with a straight stitch. Or keep it open and have a secret compartment! Like James Bond… if he were to carry a tote bag with a unicorn on it…
Fluff your bag out, and enjoy! Or at least enjoy the fact that I tormented Eldest Daughter to once again model another bag.
I hope that helps expand your toting capabilities! Again, any questions please don’t hesitate to ask.
squirrelhaus 